![]() I’m not saying it’s wrong but just because that’s your preference, also doesn’t make it right.Īlso, when I was debating on what to do back when I got my car, a good friend and a member here gave me some excellent advice. That’s all your opinion and it’s just that, YOUR opinion. My patina is not invented, it just occurs till I can make it shiny again! So there is original 40 year old paint, faded, or down to primer in places, BUT I want it running/driving, NOT taken apart into a million pieces> So I wait till I can finish the body work, NOT take the sucker totally apart as the nut and bolt guys do, and I will then DA it to bare metal or OEM primer that will not come off ( hardly) and shoot it with a good epoxy primer, smooth out the dings, epoxy over filler, high fill sanding primer, block, seal with epoxy primer ( reduced), top coat of single stage! Done, (that did not take long!! lol). Pretty no but I can drive it as I work on it. My method on my old car is to get ride of the rust, so your know the drill, cut, weld, grind, epoxy, filler epoxy, sanding primer, seal temporary with spray can of enamel. I can till see it now! Pretty? NO, but it got me there! I gave a c*** So a can or two of Ajax and a stiff rag, I could then see the see again, but way faded almost down to primer, OK so down to some prime. ![]() He’s one smart dude! Right first ( and sorta only) was my first ride at age 16, a hand me down 49 chevy It was originally blue, but in 1964 when I got it, it had sat under a SW Ga pecan tree for all those years. He’s also the one who convinced me to make the 10 hour drive to North Carolina to go buy my Duster. If I were you, I’d get the car running and driving and ride that fad till it goes out, THEN worry about body and paint.” And he wasn’t wrong. He told me “the ratty muscle cars are the hot fad right now. So tell me, which route is truly better?Īlso, when I was debating on what to do back when I got my car, a good friend and a member here gave me some excellent advice. Now, had I torn into the car, it’d still be sitting in thousands of pieces, I’d probably be burned out by lack of time and money to make any progress on the car AND in those 5 years, we have moved, and while we still own the first place, we are now 25 minutes away and I rarely get down there. In those 5 years I have been able to maybe put another $2-3k in the car total. Well obviously I decided to go the second route. Get the mechanical side of it done (car hadn’t ran in 20+ years) and ENJOY the car and fix things as I can and then someday, when I have a second one running, tear the Duster apart for a full redo. Tear into the car and strip it all down and start on a full blown redo or 2. When I bought my Duster, I had a decision to make. I’m not saying it’s wrong but just because that’s your preference, also doesn’t make it right. I can assist if someone is interested.Click to expand.That’s all your opinion and it’s just that, YOUR opinion. Rattle can clear is not very tough, automotive clear is stronger and can be flattened, depends on how familiar you are with auto paint. Then you're stuck sanding and re clearing or losing the original finish. Oil coat, works well easy to reapply, I always seem to get oil on me later, don't care for this personally.Ĭlear coat - unless you kill all the corrosion, the clear will fail, just depends on how long. This is the easiest and simplest method to me. Heavy coat of wax, I like paste waxes for this, particurly johnsons paste wax. Shoot some matching paint on it and wipe with thinner to blend it in, it will still look weathered but you need to get enough paint on it to seal it, need a good paint match first for this to look right. Main thing is to get a layer of something on it to prevent air/oxygen/ additional rust. Protecting it after that, couple choices. Heavier, scaly rust will need some careful wire brushing to not remove paint, maybe some sanding, work slow and save as much paint as possible. Rust spots need to be neutralized, if theyre mild you can try CLR (calcium lime rust) bathroom cleaner and a scotchbrite on the rusted areas. Old paint usually has lots of grime, get the paint clean with mild soap and soft clot.
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